In July 2026, I took my first trip to New England, primarily visiting Salem, MA and its outskirts. And just like my first trip to New York City in 2019, I brought Kermit along with me.
Kermit is much more comfortable posing for photos than I am. So, he was more than happy to model for me as I toured both some famous locations and some less frequented areas in and around the town. Below are Kermit’s adventures in Salem.
Salem day one
It was an 11-hour drive from home to our hotel. So, we left at 4:00 am, arriving at 3:00 pm. We stayed at The Cove, a hotel about a mile away from the main square of Salem towards the Beverly area.
After checking in, we headed down to the Salem Commons. On the way, we really got a sense of the layout of the town with its old homes, most of which have plaques which detail when the home was built, who lived in it, and what they did for a living. Most were in the maritime industry, and many of the plaques date back to the 1800s, long after the witch trials which have made the town famous.
The homes closer to our hotel were wood-frame. Some were painted unusual colors, like plum and bright blue. Most were lived-in, single-family homes, while others had been converted to bed and breakfasts or even businesses. Many of the front doors had notes with instructions for delivering to side doors, creating a unique blend of the past and present.
The front yards were fenced in with both wood and metal fencing. Hydrangeas were a very popular perennial to plant along these fences, and I saw them in just about every color imaginable throughout the town. People took very good care of their yards, and on more than one occasion, we saw them spraying the weeds on their cobblestone walkways and sidewalks with a non-toxic solution that made the air smell like vinegar.
The Commons
I’d done a lot of research before coming to this town. Vloggers and podcasters were particularly instrumental in helping me decide which things to see and do during my trip. But seeing a place from one angle at a time versus a 360 view of a town is a whole different experience.
The Salem Commons looked just as I had imagined, a big, flat, grassy space surrounded by an iron fence with a flagpole in the middle and a stone gazebo off to one side. It was never very crowded, no matter what time of day we passed by it. People walked their dogs through, and members of the homeless population claimed a bench for their bed each evening, keeping their shopping carts full of their belongings nearby.
Across the street from the Commons was the Roger Conant statue. Behind it was the Salem Witch Museum. One block over was Derby Square, the main touristy area which was lined with shops, museums, and a fountain.
We have cobblestone streets at home, but this area was very uneven, and after miles and miles of walking, it becomes like walking without shoes. The gray cobblestones are even harder to walk on than the red bricks, so I found myself weaving around them whenever possible. Kermit should have counted himself lucky to get to hitch a ride in my backpack.
The Witch Trials Memorial
Like many towns now, Salem essentially shuts down at 6:00 pm. Other than the bars and the restaurants that serve dinner, there’s really not much to do in the evenings.
Luckily, I was mostly there for the history, and the Witch Trials Memorial is always open, or at least there’s no gate on it. This stone wall contains a stone bench with each victim’s name, date of execution, and manner of execution engraved on it.
Flowers, coins, and other offerings were left on each slab. I had brought along a bag of shiny stones to place on the graves at each cemetery I visited. So, I took the time to lay one on each bench. Oddly enough, most of the stones were gone when I returned the following day. I don’t know why, considering most of the other flowers and trinkets were still there.
The memorial is located right next to Charter Street Cemetery. Unfortunately, this cemetery is gated after hours and is monitored to make sure you keep to the gravel path and don’t touch any of the stones. So, that would have to wait, but I did get to sneak a peek over the low stone wall that surrounded it.
We then found the Bewitched statue across the street from Rockafellas. Again, its position showed just how odd the layout of this town was to me versus what I’d seen in photos and videos. This statue just sits along the road in front of some restaurants, and it’s hard to stand near it while waiting your turn to photograph it without getting into someone else’s shot.
We then took a short walk down the street to scope out some more of the town. By then, there was nothing else to do. So, we headed back to the hotel to rest up for the next day.
Salem day two
The next morning, after a quick trip to Dunkin’ Donuts, we headed back to The Commons. As we proceeded down the street, a tall and skinny turkey crossed the road onto our side of the sidewalk and began harassing a guy who was walking towards us. He took off his backpack and began swatting at the bird, but the turkey just keep following him as if chasing down a thief. Needless to say, we crossed the street and were on turkey watch from then on. We’ve got turkeys at home but not that big.
The Willows
Just as everything closes early, everything in Salem, aside from the breakfast places, opens between 10:00 and 11:00 am. So, we had a few hours to kill before the town actually woke up.
We decided to walk down to the Salem Willows, a park and picnic area about a mile and a half away from the town. On the way, we passed by the Salem Maritime National Historic Park which had an ancient sailboat docked in the water nearby. We also passed by the House of the Seven Gables, another tourist-friendly site off the beaten path that I hoped to return to later in the trip, but, unfortunately, we ran out of time.
The Willows was a large, grassy area appropriately full of willow trees that overlooked the water. It was a Sunday morning, and families were already there setting up their picnic and swimming gear or just passing by while they walked their dogs.
The place had a beachy boardwalk feel without the boardwalk. And of course, none of the restaurants were open. So, we made a loop around the park and then headed back to the town.
On the way back, we passed by the Custom House and the Nathaniel Hawthorne Statue. We then arrived back at Derby Square.
The cemetery safari begins
Charter Street Cemetery was now open, and we entered through, taking in the ancient graves from the pathway. As old and historical as it looks, it’s also surrounded by modern buildings and attractions. So, it’s hard to not notice the souvenir shops on the other side of the fence, the rap music blasting from passing cars, and the verbal altercation break out between two grown men in the parking lot on the other side of the back stone wall. Still, this is the kind of cemetery I had imagined visiting when planning my trip to Salem.
From there, we headed to Howard Street Cemetery. It’s a much bigger cemetery but still pretty small and off the beaten path but still located within the town. The tombstones are just as old, and there are no rules about walking up to and touching them.
We were the only ones in this cemetery. I was expecting swarms of tourists to be traipsing through every cemetery in the town, but it just wasn’t as high up on other people’s priorities list as it was mine.
I left stones on a few of the graves at Howard Street Cemetery. I had resolved to select stones that maybe weren’t as prominent and likely got passed over, the Charlie Brown trees of Salem if you will, and give them a little attention.
Ropes Mansion
We then headed to Ropes Mansion. On the way, we stopped in at Blackcraft, a famous gift shop and coffee shop. The coffee line was dozens of people deep by then, but there were a few free photo ops. So, I sat Kermit in one area and had him pose for the camera looking darkly regal in a black, leather chair.
We also passed by The Witch House. It just sat unassuming on the corner, not as big as you’d imagine but just as eye-catching with its dark gray siding and steep roof. More on that later.
Down the street, we made it to the Ropes Mansion. Again, it’s not as big as you’d think, but it also looks exactly how you’d think. The mansion was a little pricey to tour, but the gardens in the back were free, and it was a nice place to rest after walking all morning. There were so many different types of flowers, and everything was so well taken care of.
Pioneer Village
After a rest, it was time for another hike down to the Salem Pioneer Village. It was about a mile and a half from the Ropes Mansion. So, we really got a close look at one of the more suburban areas in town. It’s not as picturesque as the homes you see the kids trick-or-treating in in Hocus Pocus, but it felt more livable than the homes directly in town.
There’s a park near the village, and that day, the Salem Fire Department was there spraying some kids with a hose to cool off in the summer heat. The Boys and Girls Club was also there hosting a kickball game with vendor tents and food trucks lining the area. It felt like stepping into a small town’s community day away from the t-shirt shops and the trolley tour signs.
Pioneer Village was a nice retreat from the kitschy feel of Derby Square. It too is a tourist attraction, but it’s an enclosed area that feels very much like stepping into a time warp. The displays in each house are well labeled so that you understand what you’re looking at and its purpose. It also doesn’t sugarcoat the rough conditions that people had to endure in this lifestyle.
On the way back, we stopped by Max’s House from Hocus Pocus. It’s situated right along the water and both looked exactly as it looks in the movie while also being smaller and a little more worn down than you’d imagine. It’s also somebody’s private residence which puts the location into perspective. However, it doesn’t diminish the Disney magic that immortalized it onscreen in the early 90s.
Broad Street Cemetery
We then headed back to the square, and after a brief rest, we proceeded to Broad Street Cemetery. This is another small cemetery with ancient looking graves. It also houses the shared stone of Judge Jonathan Corwin and Sheriff George Corwin, two significant players in the witch trials. They did not get one of my stone offerings, but I did leave one on the Pickering stone. The Pickering House was just across the street, and I would have loved to have toured it, but sadly, no tours were available during my visit.
After the cemetery, we headed back to the hotel, and after dinner, we proceeded back to Derby Square for our ghost tour. You can read all about the ghost tour here!
Salem Day Three
After walking 21 miles the day prior and facing 90-degree temperatures for our third day, we had initially resolved to stay in and around Derby Square all day. However, there were still some more cemeteries to visit, and one mile on Google Maps can be misleading.
We first headed to Friends Cemetery down the street from Ropes Mansion. I had been warned that the cemetery was small, but I was resolved to visit every cemetery in the town.
Unfortunately, we walked over there only to find the gate closed. So, Kermit posed on the fence, and we admired it from the sidewalk.
We then headed to St. Mary’s Cemetery. I had originally seen this cemetery while driving in and knew it was not really near the main attractions, but I figured we could be there and back in an hour or so.
Unfortunately, the route from Friends Cemetery was a very hilly and tiring. On the way, we passed another cemetery which turned out to be Harmony Grove, another one on the list. I had resolved to visit this one on the way back, but we ended up taking a flatter path back to Derby Square, so we missed it.
St. Mary’s Cemetery was very large and a bit more modern. The church that it was connected to sat on the property, unlike the other cemeteries in town which just seemed to be small plots of land wherever they could spare the room.
On the way back, we also stopped in at Greenlawn Cemetery. This area was very shady and gave us a place to rest before continuing back on our route. While sitting, a huge funeral procession came through the front gates, and we waited for it to pass before heading back out.
The Peabody Essex Museum
Back in Derby Square, we visited the Peabody Essex Museum. This is a large, three-story building that sits on the corner and is their big historical museum in town, but it’s not as popular as some of the others.
The museum contains a ton of artifacts brought back from Salem’s sailors during their travels. There’s also a ton of artwork, oddities, and a small but interesting exhibit about the witch trials.
I was hyped up to see this museum from listening to Salem The Podcast the past few years. This podcast really leans into the overall history of the town, not just the witch trials, and the museum really lived up to its reputation by showcasing many different eras of the town. I just wished I wasn’t so tired while touring it.
At one point, we sat in the garden in the PEM. There, I snapped Kermie’s picture by a fountain as we took a break.
Count Orlok’s Nightmare Gallery
Like I said, I was all for the touristy things, but I didn’t feel the need to do every touristy museum in the square. One museum that stood out as a must-do was Count Orlok’s Nightmare Gallery Monster Museum. While not Salem-themed, this museum contained a ton of horror costumes and mannequins. So, it felt appropriate while not on theme.
There’s no photography allowed in the museum. So, I couldn’t take Kermie’s picture in there. But it was well worth the admission, especially to a horror fan who grew up watching these classic monsters, slashers, and sci-fi characters on the floor of my living room.
The Witch House
We then decided to get back into the witch trials stuff and tour The Witch House. The house was self-guided, and while the staff tried their best to keep it from getting too crowded in there, it was tough to maneuver around the other visitors to read the plaques.
I would have preferred a guided tour where you could have learned more facts. Instead, the visitors seemed to forget the rules as quickly as they were shared, and the staff was constantly telling people not to touch the exhibits.
After that, we did some souvenir shopping. We went into a few stores but not many. I will say that each store had its own inventory, unlike beach souvenir shops where you see the same shot glasses and magnets in every store. Still, there was nothing there that you couldn’t get at any oddities shop or convention in any other town, making me wish we had done more shopping off the beaten path and really looked through their vintage stores for something more interesting besides the touristy trinkets to take home.
That was pretty much the end of day three. Despite trying to make it a less grueling day, we had walked 12 miles, and after dinner, we called it an early night.
Day Four
Day four started off early with a pre-booked tour to Fall River to tour the Lizzie Borden house. I’ll be detailing that experience in another post.
After Fall River, we headed to Danvers where most of the actual witch trials events played out. I was determined to see their memorial, which was placed along the road near a ballfield. So, it was easy to park and walk over to see it.
I loved the quotes that they decided to use on this memorial. It really shows how determined the victims were to maintain their innocence and how they were remembered because of that determination. It’s both sad and admirable. The chain carvings on the front of the memorial surrounding the book of life was also a very powerful image that stuck with me.
I took Kermie’s photo from the fence behind the memorial. Even though I’d been taking photos of him in cemeteries and other historical spots all week, I felt that there was a line that needed to be drawn, and I didn’t want to make light of such a dark part of history.
The Rebecca Nurse Homestead was just down the street from the memorial. While I’d liked to have toured it, it was unfortunately closed.
Instead, we visited Walnut Grove Cemetery. It was pretty big, and they had some very strict rules about planting flowers and leaving other objects at the graves. Multiple bridges were built through the cemetery which ran over a tiny creek that weaved its way through the property, giving it a very distinct landscape.
Marblehead
After an early dinner, we decided to visit Old Burial Hill in Marblehead. We were 30 minutes away, and Google said that the cemetery closed in 15 minutes. More research gave other potential closing times. So, we decided to chance it, as it was the last cemetery on our list and one of the ones we most wanted to see.
Upon arrival, we parked at the bottom of the hill and walked up the steps. There was no gate surrounding the cemetery, so there was no fear of getting locked in. Also, there were a few other visitors in the cemetery, and there were no caretakers around to kick us out.
The cemetery was small, hilly, and rocky with a large gazebo overlooking the town and the water. The graves were old and flat and most resembled those you’d see in an old Looney Tunes cartoon. It was well worth the drive.
One last look at Salem
Afterwards, we headed back to Salem for one last walk through Derby Square. Of course, everything was closed by then. So, we really walked through just to say goodbye.
We stopped once more at the witch trials memorial, which I think is my favorite part of downtown Salem. It’s the place where even the most giddy tourists suddenly grow quiet and contemplative, not that I didn’t want anyone to have a good time, but I felt like this was why we were all there and that it demanded our respect.
Smoke from the Canadian wildfires was starting to settle in by then, making the sky a hazy purple and the sun a ball of fire. It did nothing to lessen the heat, but it did make for some cool shots, both with and without Kermit.
Final thoughts on Salem
Overall, Salem is a must-see town. It didn’t feel like a town I could live in, especially in October when swarms of tourists overtake the town for Halloween. However, it really gave me a firm introduction to New England and its culture.
Salem is a strange mix. It’s a beach town, and even near the water, you don’t get that salty smell in the air. Seagulls fly inland to pick through the overstuffed garbage cans on the main drag.
While I have nothing against the tourist attractions in Salem, I do wish the touristy stuff was separate from the historical stuff. Meshing them all together creates a jumbled mess of experiences, and it made it difficult to separate the consumerism from the dark history.
There’s a sense of preservation of history in the town. But there are also vape shops and other modern amenities that really take you out of that history, as is to be expected in any modern American town.
The locals can be friendly, but they’re not as friendly as I would have expected. You can tell they have put up with their share of annoying and disrespectful tourists. So, they have to keep their guard up, but if they sense you’re not a threat, they will say hi as they pass you on the street.
It’s true that the traffic in Massachusetts is terrible, and the drivers are even worse. Not only are the highways congested, but once you get into town, cars fly through stop signs and shoot out from side streets. Nobody even honks their horns. They just accept it when they get cut off. I was both surprised and relieved not to see any pedestrian accidents during my stay.
I knew there would be a large homeless population throughout the town. Luckily, they weren’t pushy. They mostly kept to their spots and held up handwritten cardboard signs that did all of the panhandling for them. The stores didn’t even seem to mind if they camped out there all day. I didn’t feel unsafe there, but as with any place that isn’t home, I did keep an eye out for any potential danger.
And of course, Kermit had a great time. He didn’t tire out like I did, and he didn’t feel my need to cross off must-see places like a scavenger hunt. Looking back at my photos of him reminded me to take things in when I see them and not worry about getting to the next stop on the list. After all, you can always go back and see more another time.
Have you ever been to Salem? What were your thoughts? Favorite places? Leave your answers in the comments below!
Also see my post Kermit’s Adventures in New York City.
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